Hop on hop off

Thursday and we had planned a trip to Robben Island, but Wednesday was a rainy horrible day so all trips to the island were cancelled, this meant that we couldn't get tickets as all sailing were sold out today! Plan B was the hop on hop off bus. There are 3 different tours in CT, we didn't want to do the downtown one as we had seen most there was to see, the table mountain one was out too so that left the blue line or peninsula tour. We caught the bus at the V&A waterfront, just missing the 10:15 bus so we had to wait for the 10:50. On the bus and we were off- the sun was peaking out so it promised to be a good one. The first stop for us was going to be Kirstenbosch Gardens. We arrived after 11 and set off into the beautiful green gardens. You couldn't have a more beautiful backdrop than the back of Table Mountain. We didn't have too much time to spend as the days are so short and we had lots to see. Our first goal was the Boomslang walk- a beautiful wooded walkway that meanders above the canopy and then back down- spectacular views from up there. Next I had to see the protea gardens - of course not too much in bloom being winter, but enough for me to capture the beauty. But this time we were well past lunch, so a stop at the cafe for a bite. The food was so good- we truly have not had a bad meal in this country. Looking at the bus schedule we realized that the next bus was at 1:45 and we didn't want to miss it- so we gobbled down the food and did a quick hike to the front gate to get the bus. 2 hours is not enough to see these beautiful gardens, I'll have to come back.

Next stop was an "informal Settlement" as the townships here are called. This one only has about 15,000 people living here. The area was originally aloted for 500 families, so there is so much crowding going on. It was also originally called Mandella Gardens as it was during his release that this area sprung up. But so many areas at that time were called Mandella something or other so it changed its name to Imizamo Yethu (Xhosa, meaning "Our Efforts"). The settlement has dismal water facilities; there have very few toilets and no sewerage system. The Disa River which runs through this settlement has the highest level of e-coli bacteria that has ever been recorded in South Africa. We were able to walk through the area with a guide who lives there. We could not ever imagine living here and know how lucky we are. We stopped at the local church, were so many people have visited, including Nelson Mandela, Desmond Tutu to name a few. The local crafters have set up their wares in here too- I bought a wonderful hand crafted necklace. Next stop was an after school care facility. When we arrived the kids came running- they wanted hugs, high fives and to be picked up. They must see so many tourists, but boy were they cute. We spent a while hanging out with all ages from 2- 10. We didn't want to leave. Back on the bus, we did a tour of the Hout bay, Camps bay area. We were too tired to get off the bus, so we noted that we will have to come back tomorrow. The beaches are gorgeous!! We got back to the wharf at close to 5pm. Of course we were hungry. A nearby place caught our eye as a good place to eat- Vovo Telo, the girls and Frank had a flat bread pizza, while I had to have the curry- bunny chow style. The food did not disappoint. Back to the apartment to start the big pack home. Frank and I headed out at about 8pm, for a quick visit to the Crypt. We had passed by the other day and noted that they had live jazz. We thought we would pop in for a quick show. Street parking was a little challenging, parked we walked by the church lot, the guy asked if we were going to the Crypt as this was the secure lot - good to know. We moved the car and went in. We didn't need dinner but sat at the bar - got some drinks and waited for the entertainment. Pretty soon a singer and pianist started singing, one by one the band came on stage- each song produced a new member of the band. The music was great, the back up singers were pretty amazing dancers too. We stayed for about 90 minutes, but then had to leave, as we had to finish packing. We are so sad this is our last night here- we could most def have stayed longer in this city.

Rain, rain and rainbows.

As promised the rain was here Tuesday- it wasn't horrible, but enough for us to don the raincoats and head out. First stop Bokaap, this Colourful area was one I had to explore- we tried the museum but it was cash only and as we needed to find a bank machine we gave it a miss.  We took a walk around and admired the beautiful houses. Our next order of business was a good coffee.

The quest for coffee in this country has been extreme- extremely good and extremely bad.  We are never really sure what we are going to get- there are not Starbucks at all that we have seen.  But we had heard the coffee scene in Capet Town was all that.  Truth coffee was supposed to be the best- meh!  The best we have had is at Jason's.  This was a place I had marked on my must do list, and there it was.  Of course we always order an Americano here as they don't do drip coffee, the question is always asked "milk on the side". And when you answer yes then, "hot or cold".  I always have to have it cold as they make the coffee super hot too.  But we have had some very good coffee and some just okay- Jason's- yes!

After coffee and a snack we were in search of Sugarman- the vinyl record store who is owned by the guy who found Rodriguez.  A 10 minute walk and we were at Mabu Vinyl, a good place to explore.  After we took a walk down Long street checking out the eclectic stores and such.  We made our way down to Greenmarket Square- any souvenir you could possible want.  Lunch time at this point and we were all hungry- a tour guide in the square directed us to the "Food Lovers Market", this place was perfect for sandwiches - we all had a panini and a sit down.  Then down to the company gardens for a stroll.  Danica made friends with the squirrels and geese right away- they would eat out of our hands if we had food- too tame.  A walk showed us some lovely flowers, plants and trees- it would be amazing in the Summer.  We didn't spend too long as our parking was due to expire.  Back to the car and then a quick stop at the V&A waterfront as the girls wanted to head to the scratch patch.  We spent a good hour picking stones and then it was home after a long day.  The rain held off for us and we had a great day in the city- good thing we didn't wait to go up the mountain though- it's been covered in cloud for the last 2 days. Dinner- what to do?  There are so many places to eat nearby, but which one to choose from?  We settled on "El Burro", a very highly recommended Mexican Place down the street.  The food was so good- Frank and Danica had the pork tacos, I had the chicken in poblano sauce and Delaney the chicken quesadilla.  The food was very good, as were the margaritas!

Those are some boulders!

Monday we knew the sun would be around for one more day- it seemed the day to head to the point.  We were waylaid a little as Frank had to go to the local walk in clinic as he has some find of infection in his foot- the doc was awesome gave him and antibiotic and sent him on his way.  Then we were southbound- first stop was Simonstown and Boulders beach.  We drove the 25 minutes or so down the coast enjoying the mountain and ocean views along the way.  We arrived at the Penguin viewing beach which is just a little before the boulders beach I know.  We paid our R240 and entered the boardwalk to see the penguins- they were all over- so cute.  These little guys are indigenous to South African - the only ones in the world that live and breed here.  They were the cutest to watch, waddling along on land and when they get to the ocean the dive in and are so agile.  We saw hundreds of these along the beach, the upper walkway had a lot of nests and the grey fuzzy ones all over (they stick though!). We could have spent all day a this beach- but we had lots to see- so we headed up to car and down the road to he boulders I know.  Once again they now charge admission for this beach as the penguins live here too- but we luckily didn't have to pay twice.  This is truly one of the most gorgeous beaches I have ever been to- the stunning blue, green ocean and HUGE boulders- wonder how they got here.  I even dipped my feet in the ocean- remembering how cold it used to be, I was surprised that it was actually a little warmer than Oregon! The girls could have climbed these rocks forever- but we had another 30 minutes or so to drive to the southern tip.
We drove the 30 minutes to the Cape Point entrance (once again paid our fee) and were on the 20 minute road to the point.  Of course there was a stoppage for roadwork- this is winter here and the Tim of year that they do all their roadwork as the roads are not as busy. Driving to the point we saw all these signs for the baboons- beware, don't feed etc.  Frank was a little freaked out :)
At the point we parked and caught the funicular up to the light house- it was 1:30 by this time- where does the time go?  At the top we admired the view of the tip of Africa- or the most South Eastern point anyway- so beautiful and glad we are here on a sunny day.  We decided to walk down and there were all kind of baboons preening on the way down- the babies are so cute, but the adults are on the look out for food you might have.  At the bottom we were all a little hungry, so thought we would grab a small bite at the cafe down below- luck was not on our side as we ordered, but were waiting for our food behind and entire rugby team- it too forever!
After the point we were north bound to Cape Town, but via Chapmans Peak- one of the most gorgeous drives in the world.  We hugged that road as it is very narrow, they have even carved some of the road into the Rock-  but the views were stunning. At the peak we could see Hout Bay on the other side.  At the end of the road was a toll, we paid and then we were off to Hout Bay in search of fish and chips.  We found Fish on the Rocks, which was supposed to be the best - unfortunately it stuck at the restaurant- so we ordered and went down the road and ate in the car- it was not bad!
Back to Cape Town and the apartment- exhausted.  We had a chill night at the apartment and early to bed.

On top of the world

Sunday dawned another beautiful Sunny Cape day.  We looked to the Table mountain and saw that she was clear- no clouds meant it was a perfect day to head up.  we had a bit of a late start but were up ther hill by about 11.  We pulled into the lower lot to catch the view and realized we could park here and catch the shuttle up.  We waited a few minutes and the bus showed up- good thing we caught that bus as most people had park down the mountain and walk a long way up.  At the top the lineup to get to the cable car was so long- we saw that there were 2 lines- online tix line (which was empty) and the regular lineup!  We quickly looked on line and bought some tix- and avoided about an extra hour wait.  As it was we waited quite some time- all the world was here to go up the mountain.  Finally at the cable car we got in and went up- a really quick 5 minute ride- but the car rotates 360 degrees as you go up- nice!  At the top finally.
The views from the top are out of this world- just gorgeous.  We started walking around the top- but stopped every few feet just to take in the views- so much to see from up here- we felt like we were on top of the world.  We spent about 2 hours ambling over rocks and peering over the edge.  Of course by this time we were starving. We decided to head down and there was only a 5 minute wait to go down- thank goodness.  Waited for the shuttle and then we were off to the Victoria & Albert waterfront.  This was built in 1992 so it's not something I have ever been too.
We parked (ample parking available and cheap for us Canadians- we parked for 4 hours for around $3!). Late lunch was our priority- Bernice had told us about Gibsons Burgers and so we were in search of it.  We must have walked past it at least twice as there is a ton of construction going on and it was well hidden.  Finally we found the joint- sitting down the girls immediatly noted that they had 57 different milk shakes to order from- so of course they order Vanilla and Strawberry!  Burgers ordered we sat back and waited.  They arrived and they were HUGE- but we were so hungry.
After this ridiculous lunch we strolled around the waterfront- beautiful views of table mountain from here- and so much to see, live entertainment,stores, museums- whew.  After a while we happened on the food market- a little like Granville Island but smaller- stopped for dome Truth coffee and I even found koekesisters!  Then it was over to the Watershed market I had read about.  All the most amazing craft vendors you could imagine.  We spent a few hours here and then everyone was done.  It was 6 by now and getting dark.  Back at the car and home in 5 minutes.
Danica tried the hot tub on the roof deck and we all had a chill night.  A great start to this this beautiful city.

Cape Town bound

Saturday we were treated with the most brilliant sunrise- thank you rain for staying away. We wanted an early start to the day. When we woke the girls Delaney was horrified to see a cricket had spent the night in her bed. Packed and down to the main house we had breakfast again at the deli and then we were on our way. We headed to Cape Town via Stellenbosch- had to stop in this gorgeous town. We parked an did a little tour up Church Street and then down Dorp street- to many amazing stores and cafes to see. The architecture in this city is all Cape Dutch style - just love it, so pretty. Our last stop was Oom Sammie se Winkle - a big store selling all SA bric a brac- pretty cool. Then we stopped at the Pick'n Pay for a light lunch and we were off to Cape Town. Not a far journey but interesting as you approach CT you drive through - Khayelitsha Township. Due to the immense influx of people, it is the second biggest Black township in South Africa after Soweto in Johannesburg, with approx 315,000 people living in tin shacks. Pretty sad to see so many displaced.

On to CT we found our apartment in De Waterkant area of town- a lovely hilly area scattered with cafes, restaurants and stores. Frank and I popped over to the Spar for groceries and then we all decided to have a chill afternoon as we have been go go for so long.

The sun sets a little later here in CT- about 6. We had a dinner reso for 7:00 at a nearby place called Gold- google maps told us it was 500m away so we decided to walk. We felt pretty safe despite all the warnings about walking at night- although I will walk no further than that.

Gold is a 4 storey restaurant serving dishes from across Africa. We were greeted by a huge statue man walking- a little creepy.

Seated at our table we missed the drum workshop but got to listen to them- which was amazing. Before long our food started arriving- Nouvelle our waitress brought them all on her head. The appies were 7 different dishes, Roti bread, with a snoek pate, lamb and ostrich meatballs, cashew filled packets, maize and spinach patties with dip and a tomato soup that was spicy and amazing. We were full already. During the appies a lady had come round and painted our faces - African style. Then the entertainment started- during the course of our dinner we had so much singing and dancing- it was so good and entertaining. During one performance the dancers pulled Delaney up and she got to show off her African moves. The main course was a springbok stew, chicken curry, peanuts and spinach, various squash dish, beans and corn dish and a huge bowl of pap. It was all delicious - not one bad dish. Lastly dessert was a milk pudding - just enough to put us over the edge. Incredibly full we walked home and then it was early to bed.

Oh the wines you can see.

During the night we were woken up by the rain just pouring down on the roof and the wind was furious too.  The day dawned with heavy rain and wind- looks like we chose a good day to try wine!  Up and down to the deli at the main house, where we devoured a breakfast of oatmeal, eggs, bacon, toast and some pretty awesome coffee. By this time the rain had petered off so we drove the 15 minutes to Franschhoek to explore. The entire drive we were driving past one vineyard after another- so much wine. All over town they were setting up for Bastille Days on Saturday, but we wandered the festive streets- doing some shopping and not having to contend with any crowds at all.  A lovely town- cobbled streets and some amazing architecture.  After an hour or so Frank and the girls were done ( I of course could shop forever!). Out to our first winery- we headed up the hill to Dieu Donne- they apparently have a great restaurant and look out.  At their restaurant it just looked like too much food for us- we weren't that hungry, but Frank and I decided to try the wine.  The girls had free wifi so they wanted to stay in the car?!  We sat down in the tasting room- with a breathtaking view of the Franschhoek valley- probably even more gorgeous on a clear sunny day.  Frank and I each had 5 glasses to taste- we ordered a cheese plate too.  I had mostly whites- while Frank the reds.  The wines are very good and the cheese plate pretty yummy too. Wow- what a good start to our wine experience.  Back at the car the girls were getting hungry- we drove to the next stop Leopards Leap.  A winery that don't grow their own grapes but make some good wines- more everyday drinking.  We ordered sandwiches for the girls and we tried a flight of wine each. By this time we had to hurry back to Boschendal as we had a cellar tour booked for 3pm.  Hurrying back we dropped the girls at the cottage and we met our guide at the cellar.  The tour was very informative- this winery is one of the oldest in the Cape- established in 1685.  This was at one time owned by Cecil John Rhodes- so there is a lot of history here.  They are also one of the biggest in the Cape- they produce about 850,000 bottles of wine a year!  Back at the tasting room we set in for our tasting- I had to have the chocolate tasting- Boschendal has paired with a chocolatier to come up with wine and chocolate that compliment each other.  Boy have they ever.  So good- these are really good wines- so we bought a few.  The Canadian dollar really goes so far- we had our tuor, tasting and 3 bottles for under $60.

We were due to meet Bernice and family at 5 in Paarl, we were running later.  We ordered a taxi as too much wine and beer for us!  Winston drove us the 15 minutes to Laborie in Paarl-we meet at the brewery on site for a beer tasting.  What a treat to meet up with Bernice after 26 years.  Her family are so lovely too- the girls hit it off with Beth and Ben and I'm sure they will be visiting us soon.  After our flight of beer we were sure for dinner at the Slug and Lettuce down the street- off we went and had a great table by the fire.  We could have sat and chatted for hours- but the night came to an end at about 9:30 as our taxi was due to pick us up.  We said goodbye but see you soon.  Another wonderful day in SA.

It's a long long road.

We woke to another stunning small Karoo morning- with the ostriches doing their dance and the Swartberg mountains looming ahead.  We packed up and were on the road by 8:30 as we had about 450km drive ahead of us.  We thought we would have a coffee and muffin in Oudtshoorn, but no luck and soon we we on the highway east towards Franschhoek.  We were on the R62 for some time getting pretty hungry- eventually at about 10 we pulled into a small town called Carlitzdorp and there was a little place that looked like a good place for breakie, the dinning room out back was so cute- the place was run by two old English Ladies and called the Rose of the Karoo. Still amazes me how cheap we can eat here- breakfast for all 4 of us was about $20! We had a great breakfast- fuel for the long drive. Then we were on the road again- a long endless road through the mountains which are so huge and daunting - we felt so small.  Along route 62 was a stop that I had read about and is called "Ronnie's Sex Shop".  It used to be called Ronnies shop and someone had penned the extra word in there and it had stuck- now we stopped at this store truly in the middle of nowhere- and people from all over the world have been here and hung their underwear in the bar- too funny.  we had a quick boo and were back on the road.  We were maybe half way at this point.  Next stop we thought we should stop for lunch- we had heard of a lovely place in Barrydale - Diesel and Creme that we thought we would stop at - but by the time we pulled up to this delightful restaurant we were still full from breakfast- a brief stop to check it out- a great place if we had more time. Then we carried on our way, so much unpopulated land for what seemed liked hours. At about 2 we were getting a little hungry so as we were driving through Robertson we happened on a few coffee spots - first place only served coffee but across the street we found Rosa's and had a delightful coffee and scones.  That filled the gap and off we went again - next stop Franschhoek!
Finally at around 4 we pulled into Boschendal Estates- wow, an absolutely stunning setting.  We helped in and headed up to our cottage on the other side of the farm.  These cottages are so decorated beautifully - every last detail is accounted for, down to the lavender soap that they make on site.  We settled in and then decided to rye out the restaurant on site for dinner.  The Werf, when we go there was empty - we were the only patrons. Looking t the menu I was a little worried as to what the girls would eat - but hey had share plates which looked delish!  The girls had a a share plate  of chicken and Frank and I had a prime rib plate.  Oh my gosh - more food than we knew what to do with - we could all have eaten off the one plate.  The food was superb and the wine so smooth - I tried a Chardonnay Pinot noir which is not a blend I can ever say I've had.
After this huge dinner, a day of travel and so much to take in we were pooped!  We got back to the cottage - watched the movie Blended and then lights out.