More food......

Another lazy morning- at breakfast Uncle Mato showed up and suggested we head to Velika pool for a few hours- this was a pool that Frank spent a lot of time at as a kid- he has very fond memories.  We got ready and headed to the pool for 10:30 ish.  What a huge pool! 

 When we got there Ivan and Mato were swimming away and the girls quickly over came the cold to jump in.  I had nice quiet time and was able to catch up on some reading.  After a while the clouds rolled in and we could hear thunder- the pool quickly emptied out- although Dani and Delaney kept on swimming.  We had a coffee and then headed back tot Mato and Tonka's for lunch.  Oh my so much more food- a delicious meal of stuffed pepper and mashed potatoes- so good.  Followed by an incredible strudel of sour cherries- we will not starve in this country and that is for sure.

Frank and Matilda!

After lunch Steffi, Vjeko and the kids showed up and we headed up to his parents vineyard overlooking the town of Pozega.  What a stunning view- we sat out on the deck and had some of their wine and enjoyed this panoramic view- this is the life! 

Pozega- vino grad (wine area!)

A few hours later we were back at Mato's and then we all went to a park- an area where families come and picnic and the kids get to play at this huge park- with zip lines, swings, seesaws and all- a fun way to spend an few hours.  Back at Mato's we were still full from lunch, but they figured the kids must be hungry and so pizza was ordered!!!  Of course we had to have some- yummy pizza indeed.  I was introduced to a new drink that is popular here too- coke and red wine- Bambooz!!  Funnily enough it tasted pretty good?!

After a few hours of beer drinking and me and Tonka talking in signs- we were exhausted and headed home to bed.  Another fantastic day in this wonderful town of Pozega- the family here are the salt of the earth- truly wonderful people- it will be sad to say goodbye.

glace, gelato, sladoled

Family at Stari Kapela

At about 4am the kokoš (goddamn rooster!!!) started crowing - we managed to get a little more sleep after that - but were awake for a while.

We had a coffee and breakfast with Frank's aunt and uncle and then headed over to Uncle Mato's house- everyone was meeting here again today for a BBQ lunch.  The kids had another furious round of ping pong and then it was time to eat!! First though Tonka likes to give an appie of cherry, rum, wine and brandy- yum! Then it was feast time- there was so much meat- sausages, pork, ciavapcice; bread and salad- we all ate until we couldn't move.

We then all sat around in a vegetative state until about 4pm when we headed out to a small town if you will.  It is called Stari Kapela and is an "ancient" village - a sort of museum that shows how villages of yesteryear worked.  We were the only people there - but it was very interesting to see.

Then it was back to town for ice-cream (sladoled!)  We have now tried ice cream in 3 European countries- the pistachio in Venice was amazing and the ice cream here in Pozega is incredible- and so much cheaper than anywhere we have EVER had ice cream- about $2 for a huge bowl with 2 scoops.

We took an amble around Pozega, a very quaint town and found some new flip flops for Delaney.  Back at Mato's, Tonka had some more old cuts ready for dinner- I am so full i think I will roll home to bed at Zdenka's.  

Delaney's 10th Birthday.

After a good sleep at the Villa Rossella- we woke up to a gorgeous Adriatic morning- the ocean looked incredible and this little town of Rovinji was wanting us to explore!  Unfortunately we did not have time to look around we were up and out and off to the car rental place by 9:30am.  We loaded our bags into the car and found a beautiful spot on a veranda for some breakfast.  There was a long drive ahead of us so we had to be well fed.

Old town Rovinji

Then we were off to our first stop- it was a 2 hour drive through some stunning inland highways- the roads are so well kept and the speed limit at 130km's/hour is fantastic.  I have never passed through so many tunnels- the longest of which was 6km!  We passed by the city of Riejka and on to Grabrk.  This was our first stop- the tiny town that Frank's mom was born in and lived in until she left Croatia at the age of 18.  Frank's uncle and family still live here- so we took the turn towards Grabrk and were there in 10 mins.  It is such a small town that his uncle's house number is 36 Grabrk!  W arrived and Mira and Ivan were there to greet us- Frank was here 14 years ago and it was like he never left.  Mira promptly served us a heaping plate of cake and juice, followed by a platter of cold cuts, bread, cheese and fruit.  Frank had to talk as they speak not a word of English- Frank had been worried about this as we felt his Croatian was not maybe up to snuff, well he was wrong- he had a wonderful time and chat and did a fantastic job of translating so we felt like we were all having a conversation.  Unfortunately we had to leave after only 1.5 hours as we still had about a 3 hour drive ahead of us.

Off we went again on the highway- I think the highways are so well kept because the tolls are exorbitant - we must have paid about $ 75 in tolls to get to Pozega. We passed by Zagreb (good news- they are building a huge IKEA just outside of Zagreb!), on to Pozega- we turned off the highway and met with a crazy thunderstorm- driving through the storm a rainbow appeared - end to end- quite a sight.

Finally at around 6:15 we arrived at Frank's uncle Mato's.  We were greater by Mato, his wife Tonka, their kids Ivan and Anna.  Mato and Ana speak very good English- thank heavens, Ivan and Tonka not a word.

Frank once again became the translator and conversationalist, as all the family arrived it was amazing to see. Pretty soon there was a full house and then the food- so much meat and bread and veggies- I am going to need a serious diet after leaving here.

After dinner Tonka brought out a beautiful cake  that she had made for Delaney's birthday- so lucky- it was delicious- I have to get that recipe.  

After  a long day we headed to Teta Zdenka's house where we are staying we were staying in the top of her beautiful house- an entire apartment to ourselves- so lucky.  We were asleep in minutes. 

Lucky girl.

Lost in translation!

Monday, our last day in Venice- so sad to leave- i really love this city.  After our usual brekkie of toast and coffee we packed up our bags and went out for a last little walkabout.  I needed a coffee and found my new favourite coffee- espresso and whipped cream (with an apricot cookie for good measure!)  We walked down to the Rialtto market- it was only the fruit market today as the fish market is not on Sunday and Monday.  We bought some beautiful bright red strawberries and very ripe peaches, the girls go their last Venetian slushie and we were back at the apartment and ready to go.
We had to catch the water bus from San Silvestro to the last stop on the number 1 line.  The problem is when you get on the bus they tell you to take your back packs off- which is very tough when you are standing cheek to cheek and nowhere to put your pack.  But, we made it to the stop got off and were looking for the "people mover" which would supposedly take us to the ferry terminal. Asking someone he pointed us in the direction of the number 2 water bus - what!  Or he said we could walk- maybe 10 minutes- okay we can do that- we started walking in the said direction.  After a while we couldn't figure out where we were going- we asked someone else who pointed us back in the direction we had come- really?  Back in that direction i found a guy with a map and we were back on track- or maybe not.  we gave up!  There were taxis in front of us and we decided to get one- it seemed like the only options- or walk in more circles.  E20 later and we were at the ferry terminal (thank goodness we took the cab- it would have been a LONG walk!)  Checking in we found that there was only a snack bar on the ferry - so we headed off in search of lunch/dinner- yes more pizza!  It was good pizza though.
Then we were on the ferry and Croatia bound.  It was a 4 hour ferry ride- so we settled in for the long haul.  After 3 hours the ferry pulled in to Porec - and half the boat got off- the custom official got on and checked all the passports and then we were "back on the road".  An hour later as the sun was setting - a gorgeous pink- we arrived in Rovinji.
Backpacks on and off we headed- the google maps we had previously showed us  that the apartment was 700m from the terminal - off he headed.  Okay maybe not quite 700m.  We asked directions and were pointed in the right direction- streets that were named would help us a lot!!  After wandering around we realised that maybe we were lost. Asking directions again - the guy had no idea- but he did try to gps it for us.  He asked another guy who also had no idea the address we were looking for, but I pulled out the reservation and the telephone number I had- he called for us and it all became clear to him.  He quickly pointed us in the right direct and once again off we headed.  After walking what seemed like a mile we arrived!!!  Exhausted, sweaty and done with carrying heavy packs- we are now off to bed.  Tomorrow we need to be up early as we have a long drive ahead of us and want to be well rested.  I don't even have the energy to load photos- maybe tomorrow!

Howling like a stuck "gato"!

Sunday we thought we would have a lazy morning as much of Venice doesn't open until later.  We woke to the sound of a cat howling and a boy yelling "signora......gato!"  No idea what was going on but it went on for some time.  We had our coffee and Frank went for a run (kind of crazy in the busy street of Venice!).  A little later we heard someone hammering and i was surprised that someone was working on a Sunday! Looking out the window we saw 5 firemen trying to get into an apartment.  It went on for a while as they tried various tricks and then we realised that the cat was stuck in an apartment that no-one seemed to live in.  It took them about 45 mins (5 of them!) to get the howling at out- quite the spectacle for a quiet Sunday.
After our lazy morning we headed out- this time we went the opposite direction we have gone from the last few days and found there were hardly any crowds the further away we moved from the Rialtto and St Marks Square.
We found some very interesting modern art exhibits along the way- which made for a great art experience day.

Garbage state- is the name of this one!

We made it to the Accademia Bridge which is one of only 3 bridges that cross over the grand canal- it is an amazing view from here!

We stopped for slushies along the way as it was heating up.  Finally we made it to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum- our first destination of the day.  We were pretty excited as it is supposed to be a wonderful collection of modern art.  The museum did not disappoint.  We must have spent close to 2 hours in the museum- seeing all kinds of modern art- there were Dali's, Picasso's, Pollock's, Warhol's and many more.  The setting of the museum is amazing too- it was Peggy's home and set in a palace right on the grand canal.

After the museum we were again in search of food- we had seen a cafe at the foot of the bridge and headed there- when we were seated and ready to order some paninis the waiter informed us that today was Sunday and they didn't have fresh bread so there was pizza and salad on the menu!  Hmmmm no more pizza please.  We left and headed back to a little bar Frank had seen earlier. They managed to have fresh bread and we had some delicious paninis and calzones.  After our late lunch/dinner we were in search of a music museum we had read about.  We found it- to our amazement as the streets here are not always labelled and unless you are looking for a main attraction the signage is horrendous (so much for a map!) The museum was set in church- apparently there are about 120 churches in this small city.  The museum had so many instruments dating back 100's of years- it was quite interesting to see. There was also the story of Vivaldi and his tenure in Venice.

paddle boarding on the canals.

We headed back the way we had come as en route to the museums we had happened upon the mask shop where Stanley Kubrick had the masks made for "eyes wide shut'.  They had some stunning masks in the store and they even allowed the girls to try some on and us to photograph them- true Venetian Masks.

By this time it was gelato time- our guide on the previous days tour had told us the best gelato shop was around the corner from where we were- now to find it amongst the alleys and canals- we did!  Frank and I had the pistachio gelato which held the promise of true Sicilian pistachios- it was the best I have had since we have been here that was true.
Back in our hood, the girls were dying to go on a gondola ride- these are not cheap and being after 7pm it promised to be even more expensive- we found a guy who was willing to give us a deal and we set off.  Down the grand canal and into the alley ways or canals of Venice.  There are over 176 different canals- all natural apparently except for 2- who knew! It was a beautiful peaceful ride - we even passed Marco Polo's house.

Rush hour in Venice.

Then it was back home and done for the day (so much for an easy day :))  Frank bought a beer and I a bottle of Bellini and we are now relaxing and absorbing the day!
Oh also - we believe we spotted 2 stars out and about today- pretty sure we ran in to William H Macy on the way out of the museum of Music and a little further down that alley Frank was sure that he spotted Adam Clayton of U2??!

Glass and Lace.

Saturday morning in Venice July 6th, cannot believe we have been gone an entire week! What a gorgeous blue sky greeted us.  We set off at about 10am and were off to St Mark's Square- we followed the masses over the Rialtto bridge and to the square.  We arrived at a very busy square- and headed straight for the line up to the church.  We only waited about 10 minutes and we were under the stunning gold dome! A climb up some very steep stairs had us under the gold dome and all it's majesty.  Heading out to the veranda we had a view of the square - the horses that we had heard about back at the the Arc de Triomph were before us and huge.  These horses were created hundreds of years ago and stolen from Constantinople by the Venetians, they were then stolen from Venice by Napoleon and put on top of the Arc de Triomph.  After Napoleon lost all power the Venetians wanted them back and here they are!

After a walk around the church we walked a few steps to the line up for the bell tower- this line up was a little longer and we had prepared to climb the stairs.  What a pleasant surprise to find there was an elevator to the top.  Frank and Delaney weren't in to it, so it was just me and Danica going up.  What a stunning view of this city from above- you can see why it is easy to get lost though- it is so small and maze like- incredible.

Lunch time and we were in search of something cheap- we found it in the form of ham/pepperoni and cheese buns toasted- they filled the gap.

We had an hour to kill before we were to meet up for our tour to the islands. We grabbed a few stairs in the shade and re hydrated.  It was so hot today and sticky- yuck!

At 2:15 we met our guide and found our boat.

What a beautiful boat and fine way to see Venice from the water.  The boat headed out to the water and we were on our way to Murano.  Our guide was incredible- she knew so much about this city and people.  Including the fact that Venice can flood up to 60 times per year and St. Mark's square was knee deep in water only 2 weeks ago!
Our first stop was 30 minutes out and the island on Murano.  We got to see a glass blower blowing a gorgeous vase and a unicorn.  Then we had a tour of the gallery and some glass work that has to be seen to be believed- we fell in love with a glass chandelier - but the E4150.00 was a little to rich for our blood.

this was not the one- but an example!

After a stroll along the water in Murano we were off again and this time headed to Burano. This island is famous for its lace making.  A lady was showed us how they do it- all by hand.  Each person has a stitch that they are good at- and it takes up to 10 people to make one piece- pretty impressive (and expensive). We then walked around Burano- a truly colourful place- all the houses are painted bright colours and they look amazing.  There are a number of reasons they say the houses are painted colours- the one explanation I liked is that this is a fishing village and when the men were out at sea fishing all day, they were also drinking - so the houses were painted bright colours so they would know which was their house when they returned back too drunk to know better.

After a gelato and amble on Burano it was a 45 min ride back to Venice.  We arrive just before 7 and we were hungry.  On the tour our guide had told us about a few great tradition Tratoria's in our hood and we were eager to try one.  The girls- not so much.  We bought them huge pieces of pizza from our local pizzeria and set them up back at the apartment and Frank and I headed out to try a local haunt for dinner.  We arrived just in time as it can get busy we heard.  A look at the menu and we had chosen a good wine and dinner. I had a seafood risotto that was delish- Frank had veal and a huge plate of veggies.  For dessert I had to have the tiramissu - it was to die for.

We headed home just as the line up was getting pretty long.  And here I sit exhausted and very full.  Another wonderful day in Venice.

Sea legs!

We arrived in Venice at 9:30am on the dot.  We had a not too bad sleep on the train- I woke up a few times when the train stopped as the AC would stop and it was pretty warm.  We apparently stopped at the border in Switzerland and Italy.  Once the train stopped we slung our backpacks on and headed out to find the Vaparetto- the Venice "bus" along the grand canal.  It is the only public transport and not that cheap- E7 each- yikes- we will be walking everywhere!
The Vaparetto was full, but we made it to our stop with no problems.  Our hostess Tanja was there to greet us- we walked into the crazy maze that is Venice and were at the apartment in about 2mins. (Let's hope we can find our way out of here.) We lugged our stuff up the 3 flights and what a wonderful apartment we were met with- so spacious for Venice!
First order of business was a coffee, closely followed by a shower.  While drinking my coffee I was hit by a wave of nausea and thought that it was just hunger.  I soon realised that the entire island of Venice feels like we are on a boat.  I swear the higher up you are the more you feel it.  I feel like we are constantly listing towards the grand canal- pretty strange feeling.
After a rest and a load of laundry (Denise you would be proud we had to hang it outside our window to dry!) we decided to get lost in the city.

Approach to The Rialtto 

The Rialtto Bridge

Gelato

Basilica St Marco

St Mark's Square

Palace of the Doge

Sigh! 

We made our way to Campo San Marco and there was the Cathedral and Doge's Palace-wow!  There are so many people in this city- it is amazing.
We had a look around and then headed back- that took about 4 hours.  It is so easy to get lost.  Back at the apartment we relaxed some more and then headed out for dinner.  We had a great pasta dinner on the grand canal and took another amble along the water.  There is no way to capture this city- it is truly amazing and gorgeous- I like it!!